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QuickTake:
Western pond turtles, once threatened with extinction, are making a comeback in the rehabilitated gravel pits behind Valley River Center, thanks to years of efforts by the city and volunteers.
Sixty turtles! Nowhere else in the world can you expect to count so many western pond turtles as on a hike at Eugene’s Delta Ponds.
Once threatened with extinction, the long-necked, smooth-shelled reptiles are making a comeback in the rehabilitated gravel pits behind Valley River Center, thanks to years of efforts by the city and by volunteers.
A footbridge installed in 2024 allows you to turn your turtle-spotting walk into a 1.2-mile loop. You’re sure to see great blue herons and half a dozen kinds of ducks along the way. A slightly longer loop includes a section of the East Bank Path along the Willamette River. I’ll tell you about both of these easy hikes in a bit, but first let’s talk turtle.
A few years ago, biologists were alarmed to discover that the turtles in the Willamette Valley weren’t reproducing. None of the local turtles was less than 20 years old. What was going wrong?
As it turned out, lots of things were wrecking turtle habitat, and the area north of Valley River Center was a prime example. Originally, floods spread across pretty much everything between River Road and Coburg Road. That’s why the Delta Highway was given its name — because it crosses the delta where the Willamette and McKenzie rivers merge. Turtles loved the sloughs left by meandering river channels.
Then dams, dikes and drains allowed development to spread across the wetlands. The Eugene Sand & Gravel Company excavated huge pits in the 1950s and 1960s, digging up river gravel to build freeways and roads. The abandoned pits filled with water, but they were disconnected from the river, in a wasteland left to overgrow with blackberries for 40 years.
In 2003 the city began the long process of turning things around. An old river channel was reopened, connecting the ponds. Invasive plants were pulled. Alders, cottonwoods and willows were planted. And trails were built so everyone could watch.
For the 1.2-mile loop around the largest of the Delta Ponds, drive the Delta freeway north of Valley River Center (or south of the Randy Papé Beltline), take the Goodpasture Island Road exit. Follow this road west for 0.7 miles and park in the Delta Ponds lot on the left. You can also ride the bus here. The No. 66 bus to Valley River Center leaves the downtown station about every half hour.
Dog walking is popular at the ponds, but remember that dogs must be on leash. Bicycles aren’t allowed.
Even from the parking area you’ll see a lot of wildlife. Bring binoculars to watch Canada geese and nutria on a grassy bank across an arm of the lake. As for turtles, that depends on the sun. Turtles crave ultraviolet light. They crawl out on sunny days to use their shells as solar collectors. The city has anchored basking logs throughout the ponds just for this purpose. It’s common to see half a dozen turtles basking where they can’t be disturbed, like bumps on a log.
For the loop, hike to the left, heading clockwise around the lake. After 0.3 miles you’ll cross the newest footbridge, a 100-foot steel span over the pond’s outlet. At the far end of the bridge, turn right on a portion of the loop trail that’s actually under water during winter floods. Then the path parallels the noisy freeway for 0.3 miles before crossing two more footbridges on the route back to the parking area.
To be honest, when Janell and I hiked this loop recently, we counted only 27 turtles. The other 33 were on a different part of the Delta Ponds trail system. If you want to rival our tally of 60, you might need to hike a longer 2.6-mile loop.
To start the longer loop, drive (or take the bus) all the way around to the back of the Valley River Center mall. Near the DMV office, park alongside the river by the Greenway Pedestrian/Bike Bridge. Instead of crossing the bridge, take the East Bank Path downriver to the right.
This wide, paved path skirts between ponds and car dealerships for 0.4 miles to a trail junction atop a dike with a big culvert. Lots of turtles sun on logs in the ponds here.
Turn left to stay on the East Bank Path along the Willamette River. After half a mile you’ll reach a junction in front of fenced apartments. Turn right on a wide paved path away from the river. After a block this path leads to Goodpasture Island Road. Turn left on a sidewalk to the Delta Ponds parking area described above.
Western pond turtles once lived as far north as British Columbia. Now they’re extinct in Canada and possibly in the Puget Sound area as well. The great populations that once lived in San Francisco Bay were wiped out by canneries that sold turtle soup.
Given a chance, pond turtles can live to be 50 years old. They don’t reproduce until the age of 10. Then, in the fall, they dig a nest in a sandy bank to lay their eggs. The hatchlings that emerge the following spring are at risk from raccoons, crows, osprey and unleashed dogs. Survivors slowly grow a tough, protective shell as large as a dinner plate.
There is an ancient, slow-paced beauty to these endangered animals. Slow down your own pace for a sunny afternoon. Hike around the Delta Ponds and think: Turtles!
