Poppi's Anatolia returns to Greek roots

QuickTake:

The enduring Eugene restaurant will stop offering Indian food later this month, focusing solely on the Greek cuisine it was originally founded around.

This article has been updated to reflect a different year that Poppi’s moved to its current location, and that Poppi remained a part owner when the decision was made to add Indian food to the menu.

After nearly 50 years in business, Poppi’s Anatolia is making a significant menu shift. Co-owner Shanti Walling announced that Aug. 25 will be the last day the restaurant serves its Indian dishes, as the establishment returns to its original Greek focus.

“We have had a lot of feedback that the Greek food is where we really shine,” said Walling, who, with her partner Brandt Schram, took over the restaurant from her brother, Kai Walling.

Original owner Poppi Cottam, who was almost always referred to as simply Poppi, first opened Poppi’s in 1977. Shanti Walling came to Poppi’s when Kai bought the restaurant in 2018 with longtime cook Tom Heinl. Originally a career yoga teacher from Southern California, Shanti Walling moved to Eugene in 2016 and began managing the restaurant.

When Poppi’s first opened, it was near the University of Oregon campus, where the hospital buildings are now located. It moved to its current Willamette Street location in 1988. Poppi remained a part owner for a while before George Schaefer and Diantha Hull took it over, and the trio added Indian food to the menu because that cuisine was not represented in Eugene at the time.

Walling developed a close mentorship with Cottam during the founder’s final three years, learning the restaurant’s history, philosophy and recipes. She also helped care for Cottam “almost every single night” for three years before her death.

“She taught me everything about the restaurant and the food, and it started to feel like it became much more than just a job,” Walling said.

Cottam died in 2023, just two weeks before Walling signed the papers to buy the restaurant. During their extensive discussions, Walling said Cottam had suggested returning to the restaurant’s Greek roots.

The business has challenges like most other restaurants, including rising costs. But she maintains her commitment to paying staff well and sourcing meat, fish and much of the produce locally.

interior of Poppi's — Poppi’s was founded as a Greek taverna-style restaurant in 1977. Credit: Vanessa Salvia / Lookout Eugene-Springfield

Greek foods at Poppi's — Poppi’s was founded as a Greek taverna-style restaurant in 1977. Credit: Vanessa Salvia / Lookout Eugene-Springfield

Walling emphasizes that the menu change isn’t born from desperation. “This is a reflection of how flourishing we actually are,” she said. “We are doing [well], and we just want to keep evolving and growing.”

The decision also reflects practical considerations as the restaurant approaches its 50th anniversary in two years. “I don’t want it to go under on my watch,” Walling said.

Walling said the decision to return to the Greek menu honors Poppi’s original vision. She also said Poppi’s sells many more gyro plates than chicken curries.

“People choose the Greek food,” Walling said.

To preserve the beloved Indian recipes, the restaurant is creating a cookbook, with versions for home cooking, expected to be available by late fall. The restaurant will continue its popular Sunday Greek nights, which feature traditional dishes such as moussaka and pan-fried calamari from the original menu.

New Greek additions will include falafel dishes, taramosalata (a traditional fish roe dip that was previously on the menu), and seasonal vegetable sides called horta, dishes which are “a very staple part of the cuisine” in Greece.

“If beets and root vegetables are in season, that would be the horta,” she said.

Walling said when the Indian menu is phased out, they will offer rotating menus of Greek dishes. They welcome customer feedback about what dishes they want to see and what they most enjoy.

On a recent day, 88-year-old Lawrence Crumb was dining at Poppi’s. Crumb first dined at the original location of Poppi’s, when it was still by the university. He said he does enjoy Poppi’s Indian dishes, especially the chicken korma, but he didn’t think he would be too affected by the change to an all-Greek menu.

“I always think of it as being a Greek restaurant,” he said. “But one thing I would miss is the Taj Mahal beer.”