Your guide for cracking into Oregon’s Dungeness crab season

There are few better ways to break into Oregon’s culinary scene than breaking into a Dungeness crab.

Delicate, sweet and meaty, this Northwest delicacy is delicious straight from the shell yet versatile enough for a variety of dishes, from fried rice to cioppino.

Crabbing is among the most dangerous and lucrative industries in the United States, particularly in the seas off Newport, where Eugene’s Fisherman’s Market buys all its Dungeness crab.

Rogers doesn’t bother with protective gloves when handling crabs: “There’s less of a chance you get pinched” barehanded, he said. “There’s more to grab onto with gloves.”

If you’re new to Dungeness, here’s a guide on how to buy and crack into one (or three): 

Buying

• Where to buy: Always call your local seafood market to confirm it has fresh crabs. In Eugene, Fisherman’s Market (830 W. Seventh Ave., Eugene) brings in several hundred pounds per week during peak crab season (around the holidays and throughout winter) and sells them live or cooked. Newman’s Fish Co. (1545 Willamette St., Eugene) sells them cooked. At Brandywine Fisheries (4739 Main St. No. 1, Springfield), you can buy them live or cooked. Select grocery stores also carry Dungeness crab. For Costco members, the Eugene location sells frozen and wild cooked sections.
• Price: On Jan. 15, Fisherman’s Market was selling Dungeness for $9.99 per pound, but prices fluctuate depending on port prices. 
• How much meat? Dungeness crabs boast a decent meat-to-shell ratio, about 25%. For the not so math-inclined, that’s about 1 pound of meat per 4 pounds of whole crab.
• Ordering tips: Ask your fishmonger to clean the crabs unless you love the rich umami “butter” or “mustard,” as the guts are nicknamed. Don’t want the hassle of shells? Buy the meat already picked.
  • A safety note: While Oregon must ensure safe biotoxin levels before the crab fishery can open, the state Department of Agriculture advises to discard the guts before cooking, as toxins and contaminants are concentrated there.

Cooking

• From raw: Fisherman’s Market has a cooking guide, but the basics are:
  • Keep them cold. Refrigerate your crabs for up to 12 hours. The cold also ensures they’re less feisty and easier to handle. 
  • Salt that water. Rogers uses about one cup of salt for every 2.5 gallons of water, but go by your own taste and preferred sodium levels. You can also add your favorite seasoning here, like Cajun or Old Bay.
  • Boil and plunge. Grasp each whole crab by the rear, stick them headfirst into the boiling water, and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes. 
  • Rinse in cold water. This stops the cooking process and makes for easier picking.
• From cooked: Steam the crabs for 5 minutes with your favorite seasoning.
• Temperature: You can serve Dungeness crab hot, warm or cold. For first-timers, Rogers recommends trying it cold.

Feasting

• Break it down: Remove the carapace (upper shell) and apron (abdominal covering). If the crab wasn’t cleaned, rip the bitter gills out. Break the crab in half. Twist off the legs and claws, then bend at each joint until they snap. 
• The tools: Use seafood crackers to break the shell. Rogers also likes to use a wooden mallet, gently hammering the legs and claws until he can easily peel them open. Don’t go too hard or you’ll end up crushing the meat and shattering the shell into tiny pieces. Not fun. Use picks, your fingers or the crab’s pincers to scoop out the meat.

• Crack your own way: Picking a crab is like going to the gym. You might be self-conscious, but everyone else is focused on their own workout.
• Which picker are you? There are two types of crab eaters, according to Rogers: The ones who get all the meat out first (the “collectors,” he calls them) and those who feast as they crack. Rogers falls into the latter category.
• Embrace the labor: Patience, good company (or solitude) and a few beers will get you through the most toilsome crabs.