Two places to soak where the faint sulfur smell is part of the charm

Thanks to Oregon’s volcanic activity and converging fault lines, the state is home to about 50 mineral hot springs. From the steaming pools tucked beneath the Alvord Desert’s wide-open skies to the Breitenbush retreat near Detroit and the travertine dome soaking pools at Umpqua, the state is dotted with geothermal gems. Within Lane County, four natural hot springs draw locals and travelers year-round.

Two of these springs — Deer Creek, also known as Bigelow, and McCredie — are unpredictable, shifting in depth and temperature with the seasons. But the other two are steady and rejuvenating: Belknap and Terwilliger (also known as Cougar). Get in, the water’s fine!  

Terwilliger (Cougar) Hot Spring

These soaking pools were originally named for European settler Hiram Terwilliger, who encountered them in the 1860s. Today, the site is just as often called Cougar Hot Spring for its location near Cougar Reservoir. The spring lies about 55 miles east of Eugene and is one of the most visited geothermal sites in the region.

Getting there is part of the adventure. The access road is winding and can be icy in winter, so take it slow. You’ll be rewarded with scenic views of Cougar Reservoir along the way. From the parking area, a short forest trail leads to the spring — muddy in wet months and marked by signs of past wildfire damage. The landscape is still recovering, and you’ll see charred trees and regrowth right up to the site.

Here, hot mineral water spills down a mossy ravine into a series of four human-constructed, stone-lined soaking pools. Terraced along the hillside, the pools range from 3 to 12 feet across and sit about 2 to 3 feet deep, creating a stairway of warm, steaming water. Temperatures are hottest at the upper pool, about 112 degrees Fahrenheit, and get cooler as the pools descend, about 85 degrees Fahrenheit at the lowest pool. There’s also a creek running beside the pools if you’re game for a cold plunge. 

Like many geothermal spots, Terwilliger’s faint sulfur smell is part of the charm. The hot springs are fully outdoors with minimal infrastructure, so be ready for the elements. Also, expect nudity; this is a clothing-optional site with a long tradition of natural soaking culture. 

Best for: Adults who can navigate the uneven, sometimes slick trail leading into this rustic, off-grid site — and who are comfortable with nudity.

If you go

• Location: From Blue River on Highway 126, travel 4 miles east to the Aufderheide Scenic Byway (Forest Road 19). Follow south on Aufderheide Drive, take a right at the Y toward Cougar Reservoir, then continue 5 miles to the Terwilliger Hot Spring parking lot.
• Parking: Small parking lot at the trailhead with limited spaces.
• Permits & fees: $12 per person (ages 12+), valid for 2 hours. No recreation passes accepted. Pay onsite with cash or credit card for wristbands and parking receipts. Fee covers the spring, trail, lagoon and parking. Maximum capacity of 50 hikers at a time.
• Open hours: Day use only; closed from sundown to sunrise. Closed Thursdays 8:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. for cleaning. Open year-round, but Forest Road 19 is not maintained for snow or ice in winter.
• Hike length: 0.4 miles one way from the parking lot, including a 0.3-mile dirt trail that parallels Rider Creek. Expect about 130 feet of elevation gain and a generally gentle hike.
• Amenities: Vault toilets at the parking area; composting toilet near the spring. Small covered shelter for changing and storing items near the hot spring.
• Clothing optional: Allowed at the pools, but nudity must not be visible from Aufderheide Scenic Byway (Forest Road 19).
• Rules: No alcohol. Camping allowed only in developed campgrounds within the Cougar Recreation Area. No pets permitted at the site or in the pools; service animals allowed but must be leashed and under control at all times.
• More information: Visit the Forest Service website.

Belknap Hot Springs

Belknap Hot Springs — pronounced “bell-nap” — takes its name from Rollin Simeon Belknap, an early settler who built the first resort facilities here in the 1870s. Located beside the McKenzie River about 60 miles east of Eugene, the site has operated in various forms for more than a century. Over time, it has evolved from a modest riverside retreat into a lodge-style resort with gardens, cabins and two geothermal soaking pools fed by water pumped from the natural hot spring nearby.

The main hotel sits just above the river, and the pools, designed like traditional swimming pools, offer an easy, comfortable introduction to hot spring soaking. Ample seating and a range of onsite amenities make it easy for both outdoorsy and indoorsy visitors to enjoy a relaxing day in the forest setting.

Upon arrival, check in at the front desk, where staff can also point you toward other activities on the grounds. Changing rooms and showers are located nearby, and doors next to the check-in area lead directly to the day-use pool. It looks much like a standard hotel pool, only warm, steamy and lightly sulfur-scented. The second pool on the upper level is reserved for overnight guests.

Pool temperatures vary by season but generally stay between 92 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit, warm enough for a soothing soak without being overwhelming. In winter, watch for icy patches on the pool deck. At night, underwater lights change colors, giving the pools a fun, slightly whimsical glow. Because these are maintained pools, expect a faint chlorine smell mixed with the natural mineral scent.

Best for: Families with children, anyone uncomfortable with nudity, and visitors looking for easy access, indoor amenities and a more traditional resort environment.

If you go…

• Location: 59296 Belknap Hot Springs Rd., McKenzie Bridge
• Parking: Free onsite parking with large lots near the lodge and day-use pool.
• Pool options: The lower pool is open to both day-use and lodge guests; the upper pool is for overnight guests only. 
• Fees: Walk-in soaking is limited to one hour per day; no full-day passes are available. Day-use entry costs $12 per person for one hour or less, and $2 towel rentals are available. Nightly lodging options range from $40–50 for tent and RV sites, $140–215 for lodge rooms, $150–550 for cabins, and $225–325 for mountain homes.
• Open hours: Pool hours for overnight guests are 9:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. Day-use, walk-in guest hours are 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. every day except federal holidays; there are no sign-ins after 5:00 p.m. and all day-use guests must exit by 6:00 p.m.
• Amenities: Changing rooms, showers, flush toilets, potable water, beach and lounge chairs and a seasonal food truck.
• Bathing suits required: Clothing is required at this site.
• Rules: Children must be 5 years or older to enter the pool area. Pets are not permitted in or around the pool area. No glass or drugs are allowed on the property. Pools are for soaking only; no diving, jumping or running, and only pool noodles are allowed.
• More information: Visit the Belknap Hot Springs Resort website.

How to prepare for a visit to the hot springs

If you’ll be hiking in, start with the 10 essentials. You’ll also want to pack the basics for a comfortable soak, depending on which spring you choose:

• Bathing suit
• Towel
• Shower supplies
• Hiking shoes and sandals
• Layered clothing
• Water and electrolytes
• Snacks
• Hiking poles for rugged or icy terrain
• Cash or credit card

To avoid crowds, aim for early mornings, weekdays or shoulder seasons. If you want to make a full day of it, pair your soak with a nearby hike, such as to the stunning Tamolitch Falls (Blue Pool).